September 2018. All of a sudden, I planned to take myself to some of the spiritual places….my mother accompanied me.
Our very first stop was Varanasi. As soon as I reached Varanasi Airport, I felt enlightened….something brightened my soul. I didn’t want to waste a bit of time…..hence threw the luggage in the hotel room…booked a cab…..started for Saranath. On the way the cab driver told many interesting facts. Varanasi name is from two rivers which flow through this city – Varuna and Asi. I thought Varanasi is all about the mighty Ganges. But little did I know the city got it’s name from two small rivers. Saw almost dead Varuna river. The cab driver said that river Asi is also in same condition. Hope one day these two rivers will get their original flow – fingers crossed.
Saranath – meaning “Lord of the deer” is full of ancient Indian history. We paid our respects tall standing Lord Buddha statue inside Thai Buddha Vihar premises.
There are gardens named after King Ashoka’s son/daughter/other associates.
Then we went to Saranath Museum. The museum is full of ancient materials collection which amused me. There is also a place at the entrance where history of Saranath is depicted through photographs and video. There is a drinking water facility on the way to Saranath excavation site but bring your own bottle.
Saranath is associated with Mauryan art and King Ashoka’s love for Buddhism. Original Ashokan Pillar (15.25 meter) can now be seen as fragments; it was once surmounted by four lion capital (now the national emblem of Govt. of India).
Beautiful temple remnant Mulagandha Kuti is said to be the place where Lord Buddha used to sit during meditation.
It was Sunday and I had planned earlier to visit Kashi Viswanath Temple on Monday. The cab driver advised me to visit Kal Bhairabha temple on Monday and visit Viswanath temple on Sunday. I did not understand why he said that. Later he explained that on Monday it’s very much crowdy at Viswanath temple as Monday is a special day for Lord Shiva followers.
So rushed to Viswanath temple after visiting Saranath. I did not have much time in hand and had to fully utilize every bit of my precious time. Before reaching Varanasi I checked the internet data about Viswanath temple. Reviews were mostly not so good regarding cleanliness. But to my surprise I found the way to the temple was very much neat and clean. Polymer carpet was laid upto the temple. The narrow lane with shops on both sides is uniqueness of Viswanath temple – in fact it is the feature of many parts of Varanasi. Shopkeepers call to visit their shop. We kept shoes and other items like mobile phone, pen etc. to a shop just before the security checking. Bought “sweet box” and milk to offer Lord Shiva from that shop. Taking money to the temple is allowed.
When I reached the temple, I could not believe myself I was at Kashi Viswanath temple. I felt like I was dreaming. I saw some people offering prayers inside a temple. One security person was sitting outside that temple and I was not allowed to enter. I thought that was either main temple or a special place for special puja/rituals. We offered milk to Lord Shiva outside that temple like many other people.
I saw the temple with great reverence. Then went to see Maa Annapurna temple.
It was post rainy season. The river Ganges was flowing with heavy current. The water was not crystal clear. I saw flowers and other puja things flowing alongwith the water.
Some people had advised me earlier to be at Dashaswamedh Ghat for Evening Aarti as early as possible. I was little bit tired and took a nap at my room. That nap got lengthened and we were late for the Aarti. When we reached the Ghat I found that some people were trying to get a good position to see the Aarti. I also started to look for a good spot. Alas! I felt sorry for me for the first time for not being a tall person.
I went from one corner to another. Then again changed the place. I finally grabbed a place right after it was vacated by somebody. My heels and neck were aching because of standing for long time in a crowded place. Some people saw the Aarti from the boat. Vedic mantras were being chanted and played through enhanced sound system and the priests in saffron dress did the Aarti beautifully alongwith the tune of the mantra.
Some people were holding clay pradip/small clay oil lamps during Aarti and let float on the river. After the Aarti was over I felt relaxed. On the way I saw one lazy cow sitting in the middle of the road.
Next day in the morning started for Kal Bhairabha temple. Kal Bhairabha is said to be the protector of Varanasi. People say without seeing Kal Bhaibha temple “visit to Viswanath temple” remains “incomplete”. It was drizzling first and then started raining heavily. Inside the temple all the places were not roof covered. So like me many other worshippers got drenched. I prayed to God and moved round the temple. There were some people sitting on a higher place and asked to have “special broom thrashing/beating”. Many people believe that bad things go away from life if you are beaten by those small blackish special broom. I was wondering whether they beat heavily or gently. Then my eyes fell on a person who were being thrashed heavily and it seemed the person was undergoing through a really bad phase. I pondered later on whether thrashing/beating removed all the evils from that man’s life or not!
Manikarnika – the Burning Ghat was on my list to visit. I asked some people and they showed the way. We were going through narrow lane. The road seemed never ending. Then saw some people carrying the dead and we followed them. But they were lost somewhere soon. I thought we were going through wrong direction. After few minutes seeing stacked woods/pyres gave me confirmation that we were going through the right direction. It was a long walk but finally reached Manikarnika Ghat. The place was under water. But on a higher place I saw smoke. Standing from a place far from the Ghat I started thinking whether there was anything after life.
Then I went on to look for a particular shop for buying my special Banarasi saree. I have special liking for Banarasi saree and would not get bored if I have many many Banarasi saree in my collection. So before I left for Varanasi, I searched for “best shop to buy Banarasi saree from Varanasi”. Most of the good reviews were for one particular shop “Rajan Silk Store”. I kept on looking for that shop using Google map. It showed that I was very near to that shop, but I could not find. I was tired very much. I asked one shopkeeper and he said he did not know. Then one man standing there said he knew where that shop was. I did not believe yet I thought of trying for the last time. But that man took to his shop. I did not enter and loathed that man for lying. Then I did little bit of shopping from other shops but my heart wanted to find that “particular shop”.
We returned back to the hotel. ordered Varanasi special thali. Items were many, I was tired. I ate as much as I could and then fell flat on my bed.
Next day was the day for saying “good bye Varanasi”. Our flight was at noon. I booked a cab in the morning for Banaras Hindu University for seeing new Kashi Viswanath Temple.
On the entrance there were few shops. Bought puja materials. Shoes were kept at shoe keeping center. We worshipped Lord Shiva. I felt very happy as there was no hurry. I could pray for long time.
After puja was over, we went to grab breakfast at one canteen at the campus of BHU. My pre-booked cab arrived and started for the airport for our next leg of spiritual journey.
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