One of the most popular tourist destinations in Ahmedabad, Adalaj Step-Well built by Rani Ruda, wife of Vagela chief Virasimha (hence known as Rudabai step-well or Rudabai ni Vav) offers delight to the eyes for the history and architecture lovers. Vav in Gujarati means leading down to the level of water. In rest of northern India such step-wells are known as Baoli or Baori. In dry climatic places like Gujarat, Rajasthan, Delhi etc. step-well served source of water even in hot summer when rivers, ponds and other water bodies have dried up. In Gujarat there are over 100 step-wells and in India (mostly in northern part) there are over 2000 step-wells. Step-wells not only served as the source of water for the community but also depicted rich architectural heritage of the region. Adalaj step-well is located in between Gandhinagar (11km) and Ahmedabad (15km)
My trip to Adalaj happened in February 2022 when there was no Covid restriction to travel except for wearing mask and production of vaccination certificate wherever needed. Visit to Panna Meena ka Kund in Jaipur made me enthusiastic in step-wells. I searched on the internet and Rani ki Vav in Patan was the place that caught my attention. Also as someone who loves to collect diverse Sarees from different parts of India, Patan seemed to be a perfect place to visit. After reaching Ahmedabad my husband and I had long discussion over choosing Patan or visiting multiple places near Ahmedabad plus Adalaj step-well. I had to give up Patan (That’s the disadvantage of travelling with someone having different opinions!)
I was lamenting over the lost dream of buying Patola Saree from Patan and not able to see Rani ki Vav when I was visiting around Ahmedabad. My regret simply vanished after I entered Adalaj Step-well. I found this place no less attractive compared to other tourist destinations in Gujarat including Vijay Vilas Palace, Prag Mahal and nature-based tourist spot – Rann of Kuch.
Brief details about Adalaj Stepwell as per Archeological Survey of India: This stepwell (Vav) was built in Samvat 1555 (1498 AD) by Ruda, wife of Vaghela chief Virasimha. This is recorded in Sanskrit inscription on a marble slab set into a niche in the first storey on eastern side. The oblong stepwell runs from south to north, entry to the vav is from south through stairs on three sides which descend into a spacious landing with octagonal opening supported on eight pillars. At each of the four corners of the landing platform is a small room with oriel window. From the landing platform the corridor begins with gently descending staircase leading to octagonal well-shaft on north. The stepped corridor has a parapet wall at ground level. The octagonal shaft is five storeyed; it’s upper four storeys are entered through spiral staircases on western and eastern sides. The corridor railing around octagonal shaft, pillars, pilasters, entablatures and other architectural timbers are profusely decorated. A panel showing nine planets (navagrahas) is found over a door in second storey on eastern side of octagonal shaft. Among sculptures particular mention may be made of a king seated on a stool under parasol with two chauri. Bearers in attendance, erotic scenes, scene showing churning of buttermilk, Bhairava, female dancers and musicians, various birds and animals like Gaja-Sardula, symbolic representation of Mother Goddess, and Medallions, half-Medallions, scroll motifs evolving out of Kirttimukha, etc.
These six flat structures are believed to be the graves of six masons who upon asking by Mohammad Begda replied that they could recreate the step-well. They were killed so that no one could build step-well similar to this step-well. Although there is no solid proof against this legend.
According to legend Veer Singh of Vaghela dynasty ruled over this territory known as Dandai Desh which often had drought problems. Hence to mitigate water shortage problem, Veer Singh commissioned for construction of this step-well. However, before completion of the step-well, he had to fight a battle with neighboring ruler Mohammed Begda. After defeating and killing Veer Singh Begda proposed beautiful Rani Roopba or Rudabai for marriage. Rudabai asked for completion of the step-well first. Begda completed the step-well (Hence you can see Islamic architectural influence in Adalaj) and then asked for marriage as per Rudabai’s condition. Rudabai after achieving her husband’s incomplete task committed suicide in the step-well. Before dying she asked the saints of Swaminarayan sect to purify the water through religious rituals.
Five stories deep Adalaj step-well is huge providing sufficient space for gathering of common people in earlier days. Passers by often used to take water stopping their caravans nearby. The air and light pass from the upper opening of the step-well although directly sunlight does not fall the water except for few moments in the noon. Due to deep enclosure inside the step-well you can fell much cooler ambience even when it’s too hot outside. From the first story three staircases lead to the level of water which is a unique feature of Adalaj.
More than 500 years old Adalaj step-well is a sight to behold. A place with the influence of Hinduism, Jainism and Islamic architecture is definitely worth visiting. Although water of the step-well is not used for drinking anymore, it is awesome how the beauty is still retained to its original form. For it’s construction more than Five lakh Rupees (Tanka was the name of Rupees that time) was spent. Worth it!
In earlier days, the different stories of the step-well were accessible to the common people through the steps. At present the tourists are allowed to go to the well using the stairs and then climb back to the ground level. Tourists are not allowed to explore different stories of the step-well and you can find spiked figures erected at different levels to prevent the tourists climbing the stories. In fact most of the step-well area is blocked using wooden barriers hence you have limited options of exploring the entire vicinity. All of these are to ensure safety of the tourists.
Intricately carved Adalaj step-well represents Solanki style of architecture. Solanki gets it’s name from Chaulukya dynasty (or Solanki dyanasty) ruling majority of north-western part of India i.e. present day Gujarat and Rajasthan. Chaulukya dynasty rulers’ capital was Patan where another brilliant piece of architecture Rani ki Vav is located.
Adalaj step-well is well rested on 16 beautifully carved pillars. It is at north-south axis. All the three entrances from the south to the step-well form octagonal shape from the top. At each corner there lies deities carved on the walls. Apart from serving a source of water, this place also served a spot for performing religious ceremonies in old days. At the entrance of the step-well you can see a small temple.
Ami Khumbor is a popular part of Adalaj step-well. This is a symbolic representation of a pot that contains water of life. This was carved out of a single sandstone. Similarly Kalpavriksha or the tree of life was also carved out of single stone which can be seen in the step-well.
Top of the Adalaj step-well seen from the ground is not exaggeratedly decorated compared to the interior portion of the step-well.
How to reach Adalaj: Adalaj can be reached both from Gandhinagar and Ahmedabad. We reached Ahmedabad by train and booked a cab for the day. After visiting Sabarmati Ashram and Auto World Vintage Car Museum we went to see Adalaj step-well at around noon time and still was less crowded due to Covid effect. Adalaj can be reached by tuk-tuk or by booking a cab through Ola or Uber from Ahmedabad at reasonable price.
Entry fee and timing: Adalaj Step-well Entry fee Rs.25/- for Indians and Rs.300/- for foreigners per person. Citizens of Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan,Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan. Srilanka, Myanmar, Thailand (SAARC countries) and non-resident Indians will have to pay as per Indian citizen ticket rate. Free entry for children below 15 years. Adalaj step-well is open to the tourists from 7.30am to 6pm everyday. When we visited it was less crowded even during noon due to Covid effect but for clicking best photographs with less crowds visit the step-well early. Gujarat has hot climate. Best time to visit Adalaj is during winter (November to February) to escape heat to some extent.
Photography is permitted inside the step-well but drones are not allowed.
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