Golden Temple – The Most Visited Place in Amritsar

Harmandir Sahib or popularly known as Golden Temple is one of the most visited places in India and the most sacred place for followers of Sikhism. Top of more than four centuries old temple was covered with gold foil by brave king of Punjab Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1830 and hence the temple got it’s name “Golden Temple”.

Read more about Maharaja Ranjit Singh and famous Gobindgarh Fort

In 2005 I visited Ludhiana but unfortunately was unable to visit Amritsar and the Golden Temple. After fifteen years I landed in this holy land and visited multiple times during our stay in Amritsar – saw every part of the complex, had world famous langar food, observed how dedicated volunteers are serving human kind. The way unknown disciplined people are serving the visitors with a smile on their face seems incredible unless you see it with your own eyes.

Where to stay

There are several staying options inside Golden Temple. Shri Guru Arjun Dev Ji Niwas, Mata Ganga Ji Niwas, Shri Guru Hargobind Ji Niwas, Shri Guru Nanak Niwas, Shri Guru Ramdas Ji Niwas, NRI Niwas. Most of the places are paid (at very nominal price) and staying at Guru Ram Das Ji Niwas is free. We stayed at a nearby hotel which was also cheap (Almost all budget hotels are priced from Rs.400-Rs.800/-) and with little bargain the price drops.

Golden Temple

Our first tour of Golden Temple was at night and it was amazing! The lights were on, people were serving as usual. Golden Temple never takes a rest, always open to human-kind. At first you have to keep the shoes at Shoes House. The amazing thing is that serving people take shoes by their hands with a smiling face and return a token! What a devotion! If you have luggage you can keep going towards downstairs at Baggage Room. Shoes Houses are there at four entrances. There is a map of the complex as you walk towards the temple after keeping the shoes and you can easily navigate all the places to visit within the complex like Sachkhand Sri Harmandir Sahib (The Golden Temple), Sri Akal Takhat Sahib, Darshani Deori, Langar Sri Guru Ram Das Ji, Gurudwara Manji Sahib (Diwan Hall), Gurudwara Dukh Bhanjani Ber, Gurudwara Ber Baba Budda Sahib Ji, Gurudwara Lachi Beri, Gurudwara Thara Sahib, Gurudwara Shaheedi Yaadgar, Gurudwara Kaulsar Sahib, Central Sikh Museum, Gurudwara Baba Deep Singh Ji, Gurudwara Baba Gurbaksh Singh Ji, Sikh Reference Library.

Golden Temple is open in four directions which showcases that anybody from any religion is welcome. Irrespective of gender everyone should cover their head before entering the temple. We had purchased big handkerchief from nearby shop but later found that at the entrance orange color cloth pieces are kept for covering the head. You have to wash your feet by dipping them in flowing water before entrance.

At first you see the sacred tank – Amrit Sarovar (means Lake of Immortality Nectar) and colorful fish swimming near tank-stairs. People take bath here. There is separate area for women for taking bath. Use of soap, shampoo etc. are not allowed. There is purification point in the tank and people drink water from the holy tank. I saw many devotees reading Guru Granth Sahib (Holy Sikh Book) facing Golden Temple. Listen to Gurbani kirtan played by Gurdwara Authority.

As we first started our walk around the periphery we saw people paying respect to Deep Singh Ji and donate in Donation Box in front his Gurdwara.

“Baba Deep Singh Ji was the chief of the Misl Shaheedan the most reputed Misl among the twelve Misls. Along with performing the great service of writing manuscripts of the sacred forms of Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji, he participated significantly in the important battles of Eighteenth century. When Baba Ji was informed at Sri Damdama Sahib in 1757AD that Taimur Shah and Jahan Khan had caused disgrace to Sri Darbar Sahib Ji and extinction of the sacred Sarovar he even in his old age of 76 years (year 1682-1757) took the eighteen ser (approx. 16kg) two edged sword in his hand, swore to liberate Sri Darbar Sahib and to teach the tyrants the befitting lesson, set out for Sri Amritsar.

From the other side after having been informed about the aforesaid situation, Jahan Khan alongwith his forces in thousands had occupie the trenches in village Gohalwad on the outskirts of city. Thus followed the fierce fight between the two forces. Baba Ji was yet far from the holy city when in the duel with Jamal Khan his head was cut off. When a Singh fellow standing there reminded Baba Ji of his pledge, such a miracle was manifested of which there exists no other example. After placing his head on his left palm he set the sword in motion in such a way that there came in sight the hasty fights among the ranks of the enemy. Thus fighting fiercely Baba Ji reached Sri Amritsar and offered his head before Sri Harimandar Sahib Ji. Gurdwara Shaheed Bunga being situated in the circumambultion commemorates Baba Ji and it is a source of inspiration for maintaining the piety of the Gurudhams – Gurdwaras” (Story from Golden Temple Information”).

In the periphery or “Parikrama” eating, reading newspapers, playing cards are not allowed. People usually read holy books at the end of the periphery walls. Guards of the temple n unique dress can be seen standing near the holy tank or Amrit Sarovar.

Golden Temple is located above the holy tank connected to the land on four directions. On the way you can see many people cleaning the floor, shining the metal sides – they all are devotees serving God. You can climb stairs inside and be amazed to see the artistic beauty.

There are drinking water facilities. People offer drinking water in small bowls. We ate Holy Communion (Karah Parshad) of Golden temple. Karah Parshad is a sweet halwa given in leaf bowl. You can get it by paying Rs. 50/- and in return receipt is given. Show the receipt where Parshad is given. You are asked to submit the plate at a certain point where little amount is kept from your plate and parshad is transferred to leaf-bowl. It was morning time and not sure whether paid karah parshad is given during later period or not. This is the only thing I found “paid” in Golden Temple.

Akal Takht (Throne of the timeless) is located inside the main Golden Temple complex. You have to climb some marble stairs to see Akal Takht or the holy throne. People read holy book there. On the holy throne Guru Granth Sahib is kept and a devotee can be seen with white Chaur Sahib whisking over the holy book.

There are three famous and holy Ber trees inside the Golden Temple which are worshipped by the devotees – Ber Baba Budha Sahib, Elachi Ber Sahib and Dukh Bhanjni Sahib.

Story of Dukh Bhanjani Sahib (information from Golden Temple):

“It is that holy place wherein after having a holy dip Bibi Rajni’s crippled husband with the Guru’s kind grace got relieved from the ailment.

It so happened that the haughty chief of Patti Duni Chand enquired from his daughters, in a fit of pride, who nurtured them. All others accordingly Duni Chand’s desire said that they ate what he provided them, but Bibi Rajni who because of having been brought up at her maternal home at Lahore a family devoted to the Guru was known to the great secret of Gurmat and she said clearly that the nourisher of all is only God and all eat whatever God provides them.

Listening to such an answer, the haughty father in a fit of anger arranged Bibi Rajni’s marriage with a crippled man. The lady took it as the Almighty’s will and she after going through many villages while setting her crippled husband in a basket and carrying the same basket on her head reached this place. (Samvat 1637, year 1580). When placing the basket in the shade of this Beri the lady went to village Tung to take food etc. In her absence the crippled husband saw a wonderful sight that the black crows were coming and after having a dip into the holy tank they were flying away being swans. Witnessing this after having gathered courage he too with the support of the roots of the Beri dipped into the holy tank. With the Guru’s kind grace his body grew free from ailment. When the lady returned and she in the place of her crippled husband beheld a handsome youngman she developed a doubt that perhaps this youngman had killed her crippled husband.

When this issue reached to Sri Guru Ram Das Ji involved in the selfless service of the construction work of the Santokh-Sar he removing the good lady’s doubt stated, “Eh Bibi, it is your selfless service, reliance and determination and the power of this holy place by the dint of which your crippled husband has grown healthy”.

The Guru himself named this holy place ” Dukh Bhanjni Sahib”. (Story taken from Golden Temple Information)

Twin towers of Ramgarhia Bunga are 18th century watch towers used for defending the city from foreign attacks and are located behind Golden temple, opposite to Akal Taksht. Now new buildings are coming up very near to the minaret styled watch towers. So all you can do is “watch the watch towers”! At night alongwith whole complex the towers are also lit up and they look awesome.

Baba Atal Rai Sahib is a 9-storied Gurdwara built in memory of son of Guru Hargobind. Before entering you have to wash your feet. This marvelous Gurdwara is sadly not very popular among the tourists. We got Karha Parshad and this time it was free! Many pigeons are given food and water. And there is a tank nearby.

You hear a loud sound of bugles continuously alongwith palki (palanquin) procession during pre-dawn (at 4.30am) and at night (10pm). Guru Granth Sahib is carried in a palanquin decorated with flowers (from Akal Takht to main sanctum of Golden Temple and vice versa). People chant “Sat Naam Wahe Guru”. Carpets are laid for the devotees to sit. After cleaning the palanquin is carried inside main sanctum of Golden Temple at night near Gurudwara Lachi Ber Sahib. Palki Ceremony should not be missed when you are in Amritsar.

You Can’t Miss “World Famous Langar”!

Langar means free community kitchen. In almost Gurdwaras Langar service is there. Hundreds (sometimes more) of volunteers serve to feed hundreds or thousands visitors (in some places more than that) every day. Anyone can be a volunteer (not necessarily a Sikh). It is open to everyone irrespective of his/her identity and runs 24 hours. Vegetarian food is served. At first you wash your hands (before entrance make sure your head is covered). Then you are given a plate, a bowl and a spoon by the volunteers. Climb the stairs. In the upstairs Langar hall is situated. People sit and volunteers give water in the bowl. Then food is given. You have to seek “roti” with opened palms and volunteers will give roti in hand not in plate. This is compulsory! Then dal/curry/salad/halwa/sweet dish etc. are given. We ate multiple times at Langar and everytime food differed from previous time except roti.

We had our food almost everyday at Langar. We had roti, two types of dal/lentils, sweet dish (payesam), halwa on our first night.

If you wish to donate for Langar (Community Kitchen) you can do so at their office or there is a donation box at the exit of Langar Hall (where you keep plates etc. after finishing meal).

Sikh Library inside the temple complex is a resource for studying Sikh culture and traditions.

We visited Golden Temple when first wave of Covid-19 (Feb 2021) just got over. So didn’t see many foreign visitors and domestic visitors were in less number too. But could imagine how the scenario would have been during normal time. We saw the temple without any tourist-rush. I would love to visit the temple again and serve for “Langar” Food!