There is a saying “Kutch nahi dekha toh kuch nahi dekha” meaning if you haven’t seen Kutch you have seen nothing. All these years I have seen Hindi movie superstar Amitabh Bachchan walking on white desert whenever I saw Rann Utsav promo-ad on television. And everytime I dreamt of being in Kutch and imagined it’s beauty. And it came true! Full moon night and Kutch – combination and the experience is no less than experiencing dream come true.
What is Rann of Kutch
The word Rann means “desert”. Rann of Kutch is a long stretch of salty and marshy land located in the border between India (Gujarat) and Pakistan (Sindh). It is divided into Great Rann and Little Rann. During monsoon Rann area remains flooded. Then the waterlevel gets reduced during dry season causing salty marsh look like a long white field. Due to the presence of desert (Thar desert) on one side and Arabian sea on the other the area has diverse ecosystems including mangroves and desert flora and fauna. Rann Utsav (Utsav means festival) happens on Great Rann of Kutch.
When to visit White Desert:
Each year November to February Rann Utsav is held in White Desert (Great Rann of Kutch) organized by Gujarat Tourism Department. This is the period when salt marsh is dried and you can take amazing pictures of white salt bed. Check out Gujarat Tourism website for details. Most of the Kutch region (especially salt bed areas) remains flooded during monsoon.
Best time is Full Moon night when the salt bed reflects moonlight. We went there early and got lovely shots of sunset. Rann Utsav (Stage and shopping area) is near white desert (7-10 minutes walking distance) each. We visited Rann Utsav complex and came back to White Desert again. Spent some hours to see the bright moon.
Always be careful before while stepping on White Desert as some places remain marshy even in February. Follow instructions of Camel cart drivers. I have seen a young kid stuck in White Desert during my trip and 6-7 people pulled him finally but he was upset as slippers were gone.
How to reach White Desert:
There are multiple options for visiting White Desert of Kutch. You can stay in Tent City (Dhordo) inside Rann Utsav complex which costs approx. Rs.7000 to Rs.14000/- per person per night. You can stay in local mud hut (Bhunga) both inside Rann Utsav area complex and nearby. You can visit from Bhuj and do a day trip. We did the later as we wanted to enjoy Bhuj local trip and Rann Utsav as well. Moreover making own itinerary is better than staying in a package trip when you are travelling to Kutch for the first time. Distance from Bhuj to Kutch is 82 kms. We hired a Mahindra Scorpio (for comfortable long journey) by contacting online travel agency. We visited Dholavira and Fossil Park before White Desert which we would have missed if we had stayed inside the Tent City with package. Also visiting White Desert from Bhuj is cheaper than staying inside the Tent City.
If you are planning to visit White Desert on Full Moon Night book your vehicle early. We looked for vehicle the previous day of our trip and could not get any as all the vehicle owners we contacted were already booked. Finally at late night we got confirmation from a travel agency.
Online Permit for entry:
White Desert of Kutch where Rann Utsav is held every year is a sensitive area as it has border with our neighboring country Pakistan. Hence before you enter you must register your vehicle online. Upto 5 years old children free entry, From 6 to 12 years children entry fee is Rs. 50/-, entry fee for above 12 years old is Rs.100/-, two wheeler Rs.25/- and four wheeler Rs.50/-. This online permit is given only during Rann Utsav period and applicable to only Indian nationals. You need to upload details of ID proof like Voter ID while applying for online permit. Foreign nationals need to carry photocopy of their passport in addition to carrying original passport which will be checked at the entry by the Border Security Force officials. You need to exit from White Desert within 11pm.
At the entry area is not so clean due to crowded footsteps. Keep walking (or have a camel ride) on tough surface and go to further locations for amazing white background. I have stopped on part of white desert on the way to Dholavira which was not so trust worthy in terms of stepping in on the surface.
Things to do:
- Camel cart/Camel/Horse ride to White Desert
- Hot air balloon ride
- Gaze at the white flat salt bed on Full Moon night
- Wander in Rann Utsav
- Enjoy live Music Concert
- Shop Gujarati handicrafts and jewelry items
- Indulge in Gujarati food
Buying Gujarati handicrafts from Rann Utsav will give you lasting memories. But be careful of price of the products. I found some products were much expensive than the price outside the Rann Utsav (For example Bhuj). I purchased the multicolor necklace (I am wearing in the pics) for only Rupees Fifty on the way to Dholavira but the same one is charged Rupees Two hundred in Rann Utsav. There are counters of other states arts and crafts too. So explore, compare and decide. “Happy shopping”!
Few things to note:
- While visiting white desert is your priority don’t miss out famous Mawa on your way – Mawa is a sweet made from milk
- New road from Bhuj to Dholavira is breathtakingly beautiful with white salty fields on both sides
- Carry extra battery, powerbanks and secondary camera inside White Desert
- Carry sufficient drinking water and good sunglass to protect eyes from the heat
- Keep the area clean
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