Since childhood I’ve been a fan of historical facts! I remember my many friends saying that they don’t like history as they have to remember many dates, names of the kings, and the incidents occurred during that period. However, I felt myself in love with history. I wish we had an education system that gave us liberty to choose both history and biology in high school! Anyway! Coming back to the topic of this blog, going to Madhya Pradesh in early 2022 was an eye opener for me. Madhya Pradesh is huge and has many gems less known to the tourists. Some historical spots are more than two thousand years old. Some showcases human evolution from stone age….and many more!. It’s incredible to see all such things in central part of India.
We reached Sant Hirdaram Nagar Station (previously known as Bairagarh Station) from Ujjain by train (for exploring Vidisha Sanchi Station is better). We booked a hotel outside the city (Bhopal). Sanchi is located in Raisen district of Madhya Pradesh, at 46 kms north-east of Bhopal. We had a day trip from Bhopal to Sanchi. We booked a cab on Ola to explore Sanchi. At first we went to Udaygiri caves and from there we went to witness UNESCO World Heritage Site – The Great Stupa of Sanchi.
Check out Udaygiri Caves blog here!
Sanchi Vlog on YouTube Channel can be found here!
Entry Fee and Timing
Tickets for Sanchi Stupa can be purchased from the ticket counter of Archeological Survey of India. For monument visit entry fee is Indian citizen, SAARC, BIMSTEC citizens Rs.40/- per head (with Card Rs.35/- per head), other countries Rs.600/- per head (Card Rs.550/-) including museum entry fee is Rs.5/- per person. Children below 15 years are allowed free entry. Visiting hours for monument sunrise to sunset and museum 9am to 5pm. Entry to monument is closed 30 minutes before sunset. On Friday museum remains closed.
Foundation stone of Chettiyagiri Vihar enshrining the sacred relics of Arhans Sariputta and Maha Mogallanna was laid by Sikander Saulat Iftikhar-ul-Mulk Nawab Mohammad Hamidullah Khan Bahadur, ruler of Bhopal on 27th December 1947. The Vihar was constructed by The Maha Bodhi Society of Ceylon. It was opened by Ex-Indian Prime Minister Pt. Jawaharlal Nehru on November 30, 1952.
During the third century BC the Mauryan emperor Ashoka (Circa 273-36BC), great patron of Buddhism, selected Vidisha Giri (Sanchi Hill) for foundation of a Buddhist establishment, because the hill ensured quietitude and seclusion necessary for monastic life and also was situated near the rich populous and patronising city Vidisha. He erected here a stone column and a brick stupa. Sunga period (second century BC) witnessed the stone encasing and enlargement of the stupa of Ashoka (Stupa -1) erection of balustrades around it’s ground, berm and a stairway and a harmika, reconstruction of Temple 40 and building of Stupa 2 and during the Satvahana regime (first century BC) 4 lofty gateways were added to Stupa 1 and 1 gateway to Stupa 3. Structural activities were on a slow pace during the reign of Kshatrapas of Malwa (early centuries of Christian era) and Sanchi imported images from Mathura during the period. Four images of the Buddha are placed against the berm of Stupa-1 facing the four entrances. Temple-17 and some other edifices were the contribution of the Gupta age. During Seventh and Eighth Centuries AD several Buddha images were installed and Temple-18 erected on the foundations of an earlier edifice at the site. Several temples and monasteries were built during the Medieval period when the Pratiharas and Paramaras of Malwa flourished in the region. Amongst these, the Temple-45 is typical for its dimensions and exuberant ornamentation.
– Archeological Survey of India
“Stupa I (Second Century BC) consists of a plastered dome crowned by a triple umbrella within a railing and contains within its core the brick-stupa of Ashoka. A circumambulatory path approached by a double stairway is built against its base the ground-balustrade marks another procession – path around it. Four gateways (First Century BC) provide access to the Stupa from the caroinal directions. The height and the diameter of the Stupa are 16.46 and 36.60 meters respectively. The inscribed parts of the railings pavements and gateways are the donations of a large number of devotees from Vidisha and other parts of the country. The scenes carved on the gateways generally depict Jataka. Legends, scenes from the life of Gautama Buddha, subjects connected with history of Buddhism, past Buddhas and miscellenious decorative motifs. Four images of Buddha installed against the drum are the additions of the Fifth century AD.”
Original stupas of Sanchi including the Great Stupa were simple dome like structures built over the sacred relics of Buddha. In 1st century BCE during Shunga dynasty stone balustrade which look like wooden prototype encircling the Great Stupa were added alongwith four Toranas (ornamental gateways). Balustrade does not have ornamental curvings on it. At some points inscriptions from different periods can be found on the balustrade.
Sanchi Stupa complex has architecture from different eras. Starting from the Maurya dynasty, the complex has been added with ornamental and historically important structures by the rulers of Indian sub-continent. One such structure is Temple No. 17 from 5th century CE during Gupta period. The temple is located at south-east side of the Great Stupa. Many historians believe that the temple was constructed for practicing Buddhism, however, the style of the architecture is similar to many Hindu temples from the same period.
This simple yet grand temple has exceptionally beautiful flat-roofed sanctum with a porch that has four pillars with a geometrical pattern. The roof of the square sanctum is slightly higher than the roof of the front hall or portico. The pillars of the hall have curved lions, inverted lotuses and some other simple designs.
Near the Temple No. 17, facing South Gateway of Stupa No. 1 temple No. 18 is situated. The original structure was larger than Temple No. 17. But other than the foundation and some pillars no other part of the temple is there. This temple is thought to be built on previously existing apsidal hall from Maurya or Sunga dynasty. Out of 12 pillars, you can find 9 pillars as on date. The pillars are 5.18 meters high and bracketed on the both sides of the top of the pillars. Floor level of the apse was raised by stone filling. Temple No. 40 can be found beyond Temple No. 17 and 18 from Maurya-period.
Temple 40 was an apsidal hall with timber super structure built during third century BC. Subsequently it was burnt down and a pillared hall was erected on its platform in second century BC. About seventh or eighth century AD some additions and alterations were effected to the structure.
Superintending Archeologist, Archeological Survey of India, Bhopal Circle
Four Torans or Gateways of Sanchi Stupa
Four Torans or Gateways are present in four cardinal directions – north, east, south and west of the Great Stupa of Sanchi. The gateways were intricately erected during the period of Satvahana kings (First century BCE). Southern gateway is the oldest one curved by the ivory sculptors of Vidsha. In all the four gateways life of Lord Buddha, Jataka stories are depicted.
Monastery No. 37
Probably this complex was huge giving shelter to residential Buddhist monks and teachers when it was originally built. But with time upper portion got destroyed and now you can see only the foundation part on the ground. This Monastery is thought to be constructed in seventh century CE.
Temple and Monastery 45
When you continue exploring Great stupa complex, at the extreme east part of the complex, you will find this beautiful temple and monastery complex built on high platform. It is numbered as Temple and Monastery no. 45. Most of the people visiting Sanchi explore the Great Stupa and two other nearby stupas. But there are 50 monuments in the complex numbered 1 to 50 by Sir John Marshall, an archeologist from early twentieth century AD cataloging the monuments between 1912 and 1919. You can see curved masonry all around the monastery 45.
The temple has pillared chambers, surmounted by hollow spire (Shikhara) and a flat roof similar to other temples found from the same period. According to historians the temple was probably built twice. First time in 7th or 8th century AD; it was probably burnt due to fire and later on in 9th or 10th century AD it was built again at the same place. Present temple has square sanctum and narrow chamber (but you can’t enter as it’s closed by mesh screen by the ASI)
You will find two Budhha statues curved out of stone. But highlight of Temple 45 is the Buddha statue at Veranda.
Archeological Museum of Sanchi is a great resource of knowing the place . Get ticket for the museum while purchasing the ticket for Stupa complex. Please note that on Friday Sanchi Museum remains closed.
Lion Pillar Capital at Sanchi
Lion Pillar Capitals are the columns erected by Mauryan emperor Ashoka. At several locations of India such as Saranath, Sanchi, Udaygiri Caves, Mathura Lion Pillar Capitals have been found. These Lion Capitals were installed around the same time i.e. mid third century BC. Similar to other Lion Pillar Capitals, Sanchi Capital is also well-polished, monolithic sandstone structure installed in South direction. When you enter through Southern Gateway you can see the portion of the pillar. Originally four Lions about four feet tall on four directions were installed at the top of the Pillar. Pair of geese at the bottom of lion structure can be seen along with honesuckle flower motif. Unlike Sarnath Pillar, on Sanchi Pillar Dharmachakra is not found although it is debated that in the original Pillar it was probably there. You must be wondering why Lion was installed, not other animals? In ancient India people believed Elephant, Horse, Bull and Lion were the guardians or saviors , hence these animals can be seen on Ashokan Pillars. Emperor Ashoka’s life was completely changed from a “ferocious” to “religious” after he was influenced by Buddhism, hence the Lion of the Pillar also symbolizes changes towards good/peace. If you look closely, lions of the Pillar are not ferocious but settled in calm posture. The Pillar has visible impact of Greek architecture and probably was more than 31 feet tall but now you can find only 3.5 feet of it on the ground. The Lion Pillar Capitals just did not add to the beauty of the Stupa surroundings but also was the source of Schism Edict. You may ask what is “Schism Edict”? Well, Schism Edict is similar to directions/rules/path to be followed by the monks and the nuns. King Ashoka had purposely erected these edicts at Kosambi-Allahabad, Sarnath, Sanchi in order to prevent any division among the followers of Buddhism. If any monk or nun of the Sangha or Monastery is found to create division they would be compelled to wear a white rob and stay separately.
Things to remember: Sanchi Stupa complex including the monuments is huge. As the Tropic of Cancer has passed through Sanchi, you might feel the heat especially during Summer. Please remember the following points before visiting Great Stupa of Sanchi and it’s complex.
- Carry an umbrella/cap, water bottle to avoid sun heat.
- Best time to visit Sanchi Stupa is during winter (November-February).
- Visit during morning time to avoid crowd and heat.
- Guide is suggested to know more about the place and it’s history.
- For visiting the complex comfortably you need 2-3 hours.
- On Friday the Museum remains closed.
- Since this place is considered a religious place, please wear proper clothing.
- Last but not the least, please keep the place clean. Don’t litter!
0 Comments